Cloud Cities

Yesterday Emily and I arrived in Sapa around 6:00am after taking an overnight train from Hanoi. (Click the link for pictures I found online of the city and the Hmong peope) We set off on our trek around 9:00 with our guide from the tour agency, and a local guide at our request to take us more "off the beaten path." Unfortunately, it rained on and off during 6 hours we were hiking, but about 5 minutes in we gave up trying to stay dry or clean. I at least was breaking in the Kili gear and had decent boots and trekking clothes. Emily, who sent most of her stuff home with her boyfriend after her Thailand trip was wearing gear that was more appropriate for a Duke tailgate - yes, complete with high, argyle, pink & black socks.

We were up in the mountains - and despite the rain the scenery was beautiful. Villages just appeared out of nowhere as we walked in and out of the low hanging clouds and along the rice paddies on the sides of the mountains. We were definitely atypical tourists for our guide who I believe was used to dragging large and lazy Americans on the more traditional routes from village to village. Both guides were wearing jeans and panting much more heavily than we were on the uphill parts. Tan, our guide from the agency who acted like an over-protective father when we were running off, was a bit of a walking disaster managing to get bitten by some strange bug, fall in the mud several times, and twist his ankle. He kept commenting on how "strong" we were because we could walk for more than a couple hours a day. It might be the first time in my life someone described me as being strong.

Around 3:30 we arrived at one of the ethnic minority villages where we spent the night with a family. I thought dinner was the best we've had in Vietnam with 6 or 7 dishes including pork, chicken, beef, spring rolls, veges, etc. Emily branched out from her usual white rice and tried a tofu dish they made for her since we said she was a vegetarian. We were also presented with shot glasses of rice wine at dinner. After learning the traditional welcome toast, Em and I threw down the shots and almost gave them a heart attack. Apparently it was not meant to be a shot but rather this was their regular cup size and meant to be an offering of hospitality. We explained how American "frat-boy" culture differs and on round 2 they decided to take their "shots" like true Americans.