The night before last we took the overnight train from Sapa back to Hanoi. As with most overnight trains, stores tend to close before the train actually departs leaving one with little to do while waiting. Since the fumes in the station were nauseating, Em and I wasted the time by doing our bed time rituals on the steps outside of a restaurant. This included brushing our teeth, using baby wipes to remove the top layer of dirt from our arms and legs, taking our western medicines, and amusing ourselves for at least 15 minutes by playing with lighters that doubled as flashlights with images of various naked women. Ok, so the last one wasn't routine but we could only ward off the street vendors for so long.
Yesterday morning in Hanoi we were overcharged by a taxi driver who took usto Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum (it was raining so we decided against themoto.). Although he wanted to be cremated, Ho's body underwent a year long embalming process led by the chief soviet embalmer, Dr. Sergei Debrov. Today the Vietnamese have made Ho's place of rest a site ofpilgrimage and we counted at least 50 armed guards as we filed by his embalmed corpse.
Transport to the airport was included with our Sapa tour cost. They insisted on getting us there 2 hours early. Upon arrival, We were greeted with the following message: "Vietnam airlines regrets to advise that your flight is cancelled due to for ensure the operational conditions of flight. Vietnam airlines will protect passengers." We then had 5 glorious hours in the airport waiting for the next flight. Entertainment: fantasizing about the much needed shower we would getto take at the Meridian in Cambodia and periodically jumping up andstanding on our seats when rats would run by. (I am not kidding) We eventually marched with determination into the business class lounge trying look like we belonged despite the various colors of dirt coating our bodies, several backpacks on our shoulders, and my mudcovered hiking boots slung over one arm. 30 minutes later they kicked us out.
We finally made it to Cambodia last night, had a shower and a great dinner at the hotel, and are off this morning to see the temples of Angkor.
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